Michals’ photographic secrets: a treasure hunt through fashion and beyond
The photographic legacy of Duane Michals, who passed away at 94, wasn’t built on technical prowess but on a profound understanding of storytelling – a philosophy he described as a ‘treasure hunt.’ As former model Chris Royer recounts, working with Michals was akin to embarking on a creative expedition, a deliberate pursuit of the unexpected and deeply resonant imagery.
A legacy of narrative and reflection
Born in McKeesport, Pennsylvania, in 1932, Michals’ trajectory shifted dramatically after a trip to the Soviet Union in 1958 sparked a lifelong passion for photography. Abandoning his aspirations to become a graphic designer, he embraced the lens, pioneering a unique approach that blended photography with text and sequential imagery to create evocative narratives.
Michals’ work quickly gained recognition, culminating in his debut exhibition at the Underground Gallery in 1963. He soon found himself collaborating with Condé Nast, contributing portraits – like the iconic image of Johnny Cash – that transcended mere representation, incorporating his own reflection to become integral parts of the composition. This deliberate self-insertion, a hallmark of his style, was meticulously documented by colleagues like Royer, who described it as “a creative treasure hunt.”
Throughout the 1970s and 80s, Michals’ distinctive style graced the pages of Vogue, capturing the essence of fashion and culture with a singular vision. He photographed Robert Redford and Mia Farrow on set during The Great Gatsby, documented the rigorous training of the San Francisco Ballet, and immortalized the creative process of Elsa Peretti. His work wasn’t simply aesthetic; it offered a glimpse into the lives and minds of those he depicted.
Royer vividly remembers a particularly striking shoot in the Vogue art department at 350 Madison Avenue, where Michals instructed models to be “working women,” setting up the photoshoot in the very room where the magazine was constructed. The resulting images, featuring models like Gunilla Lindblad and Melanie Cain, capture a moment of collaborative energy and quiet determination – a carefully orchestrated tableau brought to life by Michals’ keen eye and meticulous direction. His use of slow shutter speeds created a subtle blurring, adding an emotional layer to the stark studio setting.
Michals’ influence extends far beyond the fashion world. His exploration of narrative, his embrace of unconventional techniques, and his unwavering commitment to artistic integrity earned him the recognition of critics like Philip Gefter, who hailed him as “an artist of significant consequence,” declaring him “the father of the photographic narrative sequence.” Despite facing personal challenges, including his open homosexuality during a time of societal constraint, Michals persevered, leaving behind a body of work that continues to inspire and provoke.
Michals' legacy is not one of flawless technique, but of a deliberate, human approach to photography – a refusal to simply document, but to interpret and reveal. His photographic treasure hunts continue to yield profound insights into the complexities of the human experience.