Brows upgraded: six expert tips for fuller, flawless feathers

Your eyebrows have likely endured a brutal history – over-plucking from the 90s, salon mishaps, you name it. But achieving that coveted, Lily Collins or Zendaya-level fullness doesn’t require microblading or a transplant. It’s about smart, gentle growth.

Stop the tweezers: a growth phase reset

The first rule? Seriously, stop tweezing. It’s counterintuitive, but allowing all those hairs to reach the same growth cycle is key. ‘During that grow-out phase, you can keep things tidy by trimming longer hairs instead of plucking them,’ explains Jimena Garcia, a top brow artist. A little brow gel can also tame any unruly bits, she adds. This is your time to experiment – a bold red lip, a daring bang, or that perfect cat-eye liner you’ve been dreaming about.

Skip the harsh stuff

Dermatologist Rachel Westbay warns against aggressive waxing, threading, and especially those harsh exfoliants: retinoids, AHAs (like glycolic and lactic acid), BHAs, and mechanical scrubs. The skin around your brows is incredibly delicate, thinner than the skin on your scalp. That means chronic inflammation can actually worsen thinning. Focus on the follicle's health, and the surrounding skin, too.

Listen to your gut (and your diet)

Garcia emphasizes that “the inside-out approach” is vital. Dr. Westbay agrees, stressing that adequate protein intake is paramount for healthy hair growth – because, let’s be honest, hair is primarily protein. “Iron deficiency is a surprisingly common nutritional factor contributing to brow and scalp thinning,” she notes. Stock up on spinach, nuts, eggs, red meat, and even dark chocolate – your brows will thank you.

Decoding brow serum ingredients

Brow growth products often focus on extending the growth phase, minimizing breakage, and bolstering the follicle. You’ll frequently find ingredients like peptides – essentially signaling molecules – that ‘help communicate with cells around the follicle,’ explains Dr. Westbay. Some peptides stimulate keratin production, while others prolong the hair’s growth. Her personal favorite? The Olaplex Browbond Building Serum. Crucially, opt for gentler formulas with less alcohol, fewer fragrances, and lighter preservatives.

Conditioning is key

Castor oil is frequently touted for hair growth, but it’s primarily a moisturizer. It can make your brows appear healthier, shinier, and softer, creating the illusion of fuller brows by reducing breakage. Garcia’s ‘magic mix’ includes castor oil, sweet almond oil, and vitamin E – apply weekly or up to three times a week, depending on your needs. Be mindful of sensitivities, and consider alternatives like argan oil or aloe vera gel.

Brow lamination: the lift you need

For a more cosmetic approach, consider brow lamination – often described as a ‘perm for your brows.’ This gentle chemical solution straightens and lifts the hairs upward, creating a wider, fuller appearance. ‘It fills in gaps and makes everything look fluffier,’ Garcia explains. Don’t hesitate to explore this technique for a truly sculpted brow.