Moschino shakes up creative team: appiolaza exits amid aeffe group struggles
Moschino has abruptly announced the departure of creative director Adrian Appiolaza, a move that underscores ongoing challenges facing the brand under the Aeffe Group’s ownership. The Argentinian designer’s two-and-a-half-year tenure concluded unexpectedly, leaving the future of the Italian house hanging in the balance.
A shifting landscape for aeffe
Appiolaza’s exit follows a turbulent period for the Aeffe Group, which also encompasses Alberta Ferretti and Pollini. Revenues have reportedly dwindled, with a 24.5% drop recorded as of September 2025, prompting a pre-bankruptcy filing and a postponement of official results. This restructuring, spearheaded by general manager Riccardo Bagolin and chief restructuring officer Stefano Falliti, signals a serious attempt to stabilize the group.
A brief but bold vision
Appiolaza brought a distinctive, almost deliberately incongruous aesthetic to Moschino – a blend of excess and sharp tailoring, punctuated by irony and, recently, a hesitant foray into lower-key elements. As Nicole Phelps noted in 2025, his approach was ‘eccentric but real,’ a calculated gamble to broaden the brand’s appeal. But that appeal hasn’t translated into consistent commercial success.
A legacy of experience
Before joining Moschino, Appiolaza honed his skills at prestigious houses like Loewe, Chloé, Louis Vuitton, and Miu Miu, working under influential designers such as Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada. His background suggests a meticulous eye for detail and a deep understanding of the luxury market – qualities that, unfortunately, haven’t been enough to overcome the Aeffe Group’s difficulties.
Speculation swirls around the next creative lead
Industry whispers now point to potential replacements, with names like Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo from Milan-based brand Sunnei being discussed. However, Aeffe Group has remained tight-lipped regarding their plans, adding to the uncertainty. The brand’s next creative direction remains a closely guarded secret.
A statement of gratitude
“I would like to thank Adrian Appiolaza for his significant contribution to the development of Moschino over the past two years and wish him every success in his future professional endeavors,” stated Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of Aeffe Group. Appiolaza himself expressed gratitude for the opportunity, acknowledging the brand’s “extraordinary creative heritage.”
Looking ahead
With the Milan show scheduled for February 22nd, 2024, the fashion world waits with bated breath to see what direction Moschino will take. The challenge now lies in revitalizing a brand grappling with financial headwinds and searching for a creative spark to reignite its allure.