Corsets are back – and they’re not just for historical dramas
A meze spread at Ayat in Manhattan’s East Village nearly ended in a full-body crisis when a corset strap snapped, revealing a desperate attempt to cinch a waist – a trend rapidly gaining momentum.
The waist is the new battlefield
Just weeks before, discussing the resurgence of waist shaping with Kylie Jenner’s stylists, Alexandra and Mackenzie Grandquist, I learned a startling secret: corsets are far more prevalent than you’d imagine. “You can just throw one on with a T-shirt to go out to lunch,” Mackenzie revealed. Jenner’s collection, featuring a bespoke creation by couture-corset legend Mr. Pearl and a scattering of Jean Paul Gaultier waspies, exemplifies this shift.
From Hailey Bieber’s reinterpretations to Jessie Buckley’s torso-sized waspie and even Bad Bunny’s hourglass-fitted Schiaparelli tuxedo at the Grammys, corsets are no longer relegated to period dramas. Valerie Steele, chief curator at the Fashion Institute of Technology, aptly describes the garment as “probably the most controversial garment in the history of Fashion,” acknowledging its complex and often fraught relationship with female empowerment.
But the resurgence isn’t merely about aesthetics; it’s a reflection of deeper societal pressures. Steele notes that women haven’t stopped wearing them – they’ve internalized the restrictive ideals, manifesting in methods like diet, exercise, and, increasingly, interventions like Ozempic. The corset, once a symbol of oppression, is now being embraced as a tool for self-expression and, surprisingly, even pain relief, thanks to bespoke braces from Manhattan’s Hospital for Special Surgery.
Erdem’sspring 2026 runway showcased a breathtaking array of 19th-century-inspired corsets, a testament to the enduring allure of this transformative garment. This isn’t a nostalgic revival; it’s a deliberate reclaiming of the waist, as evidenced by Matières Fécales’ Paris Fashion Week show featuring over 15 hourglass silhouettes.
Illisa, owner of Illisa’s Vintage Lingerie, observes a direct correlation between historical dramas and increased sales. However, contemporary iterations, with easy closures and steel boning, represent a significant evolution. I experienced this firsthand at Orchard Corset, where I was fitted into a custom satin underbust corset, a surprisingly comfortable experience—despite my fiancé’s skeptical commentary on its practicality. The experience highlighted a crucial point: corsets can empower, not imprison, offering a tangible sense of confidence and posture.
Despite the undeniable allure, the discomfort and limitations are real. Back in my hotel bathroom at Ayat, I faced a simple, yet significant, choice – to release the constraints of the corset and return to a more relaxed state. It’s a reminder that even with the most innovative designs, the corset, in its essence, remains a conscious decision – a statement of intention.
Hari Nef, a model and actor, initially discovered waist cinchers through Barbie costume director Jacqueline Durran, but sought to subvert the doll’s idealized proportions with a bespoke corset that evoked