Irish couture dreams realized: london designer’s ancient roots take center stage
After two decades of meticulous vision, County Clare designer Michael Stewart will unveil his groundbreaking ‘Standing Ground’ collection at the prestigious Paris Haute Couture shows this Monday.
A millennium-spanning project takes shape
The collection, rooted in Ireland’s prehistoric standing stones, represents a staggering 15-year labor of love – a deliberate departure from mainstream fashion trends. Stewart’s journey, marked by unwavering dedication and a fiercely independent spirit, culminated in a coveted invitation to the exclusive couture calendar, thanks to the LVMH Prize award.
Inside his compact London atelier, a hive of activity, Stewart oversees the creation of exquisitely sculpted corsetry and flowing drapery. The atmosphere is palpable: the rhythmic tightening of laces, the careful maneuvering of a sand-colored suede breastplate, the painstaking pinning of weighted skirts – all under the watchful eyes of his stylist, Tallulah Harlech and a skilled team. “It’s all very elaborate work, in the sense that just to make the simplicity come through, it has to have the elaborate elements to kind of get to that level,” he explained, a testament to his commitment to uncompromising artistry.
From bedroom couture to global recognition
Stewart’s path to this moment was far from conventional. For five years, he toiled in relative obscurity, crafting what he playfully referred to as “bedroom couture,” driven by an unshakeable belief in his vision. It was Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East shows in 2023 that ignited the spark, catapulting him into the London fashion scene and establishing him as a singular voice – a designer who refuses to compromise his aesthetic.
“And I did beautiful work, and the only time I did say it was couture was jokingly when I said it was like my bedroom couture. Making these really special things in my bedroom,” he recalled, highlighting the resilience required to persist through years of rejection. The support of organizations like the Sarabande Foundation and Mark Wadhwa’s 180 Strand arts complex further solidified his position, culminating in the Savoir-Faire award from the LVMH Prize.
A discreet clientele, a powerful message
Stewart remains deliberately tight-lipped about his clientele, revealing only that they are international travelers who champion lesser-known designers. “I never see photographs of my clients wearing my clothes,” he stated firmly. “It’s the reason he has little regard for publicity or social media.” He believes his clients are his most effective advocates, spreading the word through word-of-mouth and ultimately securing a place at the Irish Embassy in Paris. “I think you should only open your mouth when you have something to say,” he concluded, a quiet confidence radiating from his demeanor. “I’ve shut my mouth for two years. Now I can open it, and I can blast out. And then I’ll go quiet again.”