Risso’s radical shift: marni designer leads gu into mass market
Francesco Risso, known for his theatrical design approach at Marni and Prada, is injecting a dose of controlled chaos into Uniqlo’s sister brand, GU. The move, orchestrated by Fast Retailing, signals a bold experiment in democratizing Fashion, and a surprising embrace of a more accessible aesthetic.
A collision of creativity and commerce
Risso’s journey began with a collaboration between Marni and Fast Retailing, a leap into the vast world of mass retail. “I remember the clothes were immediately in the streets, in multiple cities at the same time, all over the world,” Risso stated, highlighting the immediate impact of the partnership. This experience, contrasting sharply with his previous work, offered an instant, visceral connection to the consumer.
Defining a ‘weird’ recipe for success
Fast Retailing, a notoriously efficient Japanese retail empire, presents a stark contrast to Risso’s expressive style. “I’m a bit weird in the recipe,” he admits, describing himself as a creative force that complements the company’s pragmatic approach. This deliberate clash, he argues, is the key ingredient – a “beautiful oxymoron” – driving GU’s new direction.
Six characters, infinite possibilities
To navigate this new terrain, Risso has introduced a unique system: a cinematic universe built around six distinct characters – the Existentialist, Grungella, Woody Allen, Agassi, Frog, and Kitten. Each character embodies a specific aesthetic, allowing customers to explore and mix styles in a deliberately non-linear way. “We don’t conform to one thing,” Risso explains. “We’ve become very, I would say, multiple.”
Addressing rising costs and redefining luxury
With Fashion prices continuing their upward trajectory, Risso sees an opportunity to offer high-quality clothing at accessible prices. “Right now, Fashion prices are going higher. Luxury — who can really define this word? I don’t think that the word stands for so much on its own anymore,” he observes. “I think there’s a great opportunity in understanding that there is a huge amount of people right now wanting to find good clothes for great prices.”
Gu’s initial successes
GU’s current bestsellers – Bermuda shorts for $29.90, cotton tees for $9.90, and a tiered skirt for $39.40 – are testament to this strategy. The brand already boasts a significant presence in Asia and Japan, with a single store in SoHo, New York, representing its first foray into the Western market.
A billion-dollar brand, a learning curve
Despite leading a brand generating $1.6 billion in sales for Fast Retailing in the first nine months of fiscal 2026, Risso describes the role as a “tough and tight rhythm” – a demanding learning curve. He’s embracing the challenge, viewing it as a return to the fundamentals of design, a process far removed from the polished, curated world of his previous roles. Ultimately, he’s focused on observing how consumers interact with the brand, shaping GU’s future through a continuous feedback loop, a ‘sculpture’ being molded together.
The future of fashion: a playful experiment
New stores are planned across international markets, and the store concept will evolve to mirror the brand’s character-driven aesthetic. Risso envisions a shift away from traditional gendered displays, embracing a more fluid and playful approach to merchandising. The objective is to establish GU as a distinct entity, a brand that encourages experimentation and self-expression. “It’s about playing with the wardrobe, with a little bit of salt and sugar on it,” he concludes, a statement that encapsulates the brand’s bold and unconventional vision.