Schiaparelli’s echo: roseberry reimagines the surrealist legacy

The Victoria & Albert Museum’s latest exhibition, ‘Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art’, isn’t just a retrospective; it’s a visceral dialogue between a bygone era and a designer’s restless evolution. Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s current creative director, isn't simply showcasing the house’s history – he’s actively wrestling with its spirit.

A starting point: the trompe l’oeil bow

It all began, Roseberry insists, with a single, utterly audacious piece from 1927: a trompe l’oeil bow sweater. He describes it as “the seed,” a garment that perfectly encapsulates Schiaparelli’s radical approach to the female wardrobe. The sweater’s history – allegedly a gift for Coco Chanel – adds another layer of intrigue, a subtle reminder that even the most iconic creations are woven with stories.

Bridging the divide: past meets present

But Roseberry isn’t content to merely revisit the archive. He’s meticulously layering Schiaparelli’s designs onto the present, creating a startling synergy. Consider the ‘Apollo’ dress from 2022 – a couture marvel that features a meticulously recreated embroidery pattern directly lifted from Schiaparelli’s own work. “It was the first time something from the archives really pulled us in,” he reveals, “a real anchor to the past.”

Modern couture: a puzzle of color

The exhibition also highlights Roseberry’s own innovations, showcasing the audacious ‘puzzle’ dress. This life-sized recreation of his figure paintings—a kaleidoscope of hand-painted, multicolored panels – is a breathtaking testament to his vision. Each paillette, meticulously sewn onto a knit dress, acts as a tiny brushstroke, creating a truly unique, one-of-a-kind piece. “This is the absolute epitome of modern couture,” notes British Vogue’s Chioma Nnadi, “It’s one of one. You couldn’t replicate this if you wanted to.”

The defining element: the schiap jacket

Roseberry’s emphasis, however, remains steadfast: “The Schiap jacket is the thing.” He describes them as typically silhouetted, often sharply-shouldered, and heavily embroidered – a hallmark of Schiaparelli’s dramatic aesthetic. The ‘Matador’ jacket from the fall 2021 couture collection – a surrealist masterpiece inspired by Super Bowl halftime shows – immediately announced itself as the exhibition’s centerpiece. The brief? “It’s Super Bowl Halftime Show and there’s a Schiaparelli pop-star coming up from inside the floor. What is she wearing?”

Filmed on Location: V&A South Kensington

Images Courtesy of: Emil Larsson