The silk robe renaissance: a return to opulence and escapism
Forget the minimalist capsule wardrobe; this season, fashion is embracing a lavish, romantic sensibility, and the fur-lined silk robe is leading the charge. From the runways of Chanel to the streets of New York, this luxurious layering piece is experiencing a dramatic resurgence, signaling a broader cultural shift towards comfort, individuality, and a yearning for a touch of bygone glamour.
The runways whisper of romance and decadence
The recent collections offered a clear message: beauty, heart, and a touch of wistful romance are back in vogue. Designers responded with a flurry of bustles, bustiers, and sinewy lace—a nod to the romanticism of Wuthering Heights, which has dominated pop culture. But nestled amongst these historical references was a recurring motif: the opulent silk robe, reimagined for the modern era. Chanel, Marni, and Rabanne incorporated drop waists evocative of the Art Deco period, perfectly complementing the season's penchant for mood-boosting colors and the robe’s effortless elegance.
The silhouette isn’t new, of course. Celebrities like Alexa Chung, Zoë Kravitz, Kate Moss, and Jennifer Lawrence have already been spotted sporting the trend, solidifying its street-style cred. But what elevates this current iteration beyond a mere revival is its confluence with the balletcore aesthetic, moving from the stage to the stalls, and its refined update on the Almost Famous-inspired Penny Lane coat.
Conner ives and viktor gichev: masters of repurposed luxury
Leading the charge are London-based designers Conner Ives and Viktor Gichev. Ives, who has dressed Lawrence, Moss, and Kravitz, showcases a commitment to craft with his silk floral demi-couture coats, often incorporating repurposed vintage fur and Qing Dynasty-era tapestries. His fall 2026 show opened with Tish Weinstock in a full-length silk coat—a testament to the piece’s versatility, easily styled atop a tee and jeans. Gichev, meanwhile, runs the remarkable One Of A Kind archive on Portobello Road, curating a treasure trove of vintage Alexander McQueen, Galliano-era Dior, and Fendi furs. His Poiret-style jacquard opera coat, crafted from floral curtains and repurposed mink fur, embodies his aesthetic: “something discovered in an attic eaten away by moths.” He describes his process as one of giving discarded pieces a second life, imbued with memory and energy—a sentiment that resonates deeply in our current climate.
“There’s something powerful about giving these discarded pieces a second life—they carry memory and energy,” Gichev tells Vogue. He draws inspiration from historical opera cloaks and early 20th-century silhouettes, citing Paul Poiret and Romeo Gigli as key influences.
Beyond the runway: a response to the digital age
Alice Betts, a fashion writer, notes her own vintage find—a light blue floral opera coat—reflecting a broader trend. “I think that the return of the robe that we are seeing can be attributed to our craving and desire for the past,” says vintage and antiques curator Lucia Zolea, who has seen a surge in demand for unique, intricately crafted pieces. The desire for originality, for a garment that speaks to individual taste, is palpable.
But the robe's resurgence isn’t merely about nostalgia. As Gichev points out, it’s a reaction to the increasingly sterile and impersonal nature of the digital world. “In the age of AI and Chat GPT, everything feels so practical, clinical, and soulless,” he observes. “I feel there is a real pull toward the romantic and escapist.”
The future of the robe: comfort, confidence, and statement
Independent designers like Anna Carells are further shaping the trend with contemporary interpretations. Her ‘Rosa’ jacket, with furry lapels and a softly sculpted silhouette, embodies the desire for pieces that offer both comfort and presence. Carells aptly sums it up: “People want both comfort [and] presence. Pieces that feel easy to wear, but still say something.”
The surge in popularity, as evidenced by Samantha Lease's quick sell-out of a vintage Adrienne Landau kimono-style robe, suggests that the silk robe is far more than a fleeting trend. It’s a statement—a comfortable, luxurious declaration of individuality, and a quiet rebellion against the relentless march of minimalism.